How to make a linear pvc hydraulic ram pump

how to make a linear pvc hydraulic ram pump

Build a Hydraulic Ram Pump

Apr 02,  · A lot of people have asked for instructions on how to build my Linear Ram Pump - I put up a PowerPoint on Dropbox but it quickly overwhelmed the bandwidth al. May 17,  · Cut 5, 3" pieces of the 1 1/4" PVC and 1, 6" piece of 1 1/4" PVC. You can do this with a hack saw or a band saw. Cut 4, 3" pieces of the 3/4" PVC, you can also use a hack saw or a band saw. Take the Teflon tape and carefully rap it around the threaded pieces. 1 1/4" pipe to threaded fitting.

Have no electricity? Need water from a lower point to a higher point? And you just happen to have all of this PVC and varies materials laying around This is called a Hydraulic Ram Pump. A Hydraulic Ram Pump transports water from a lower point to a higher point without using electricity, just air pressure and gravity.

Above it depicts how the pump works the blue hydrauliic the water, the red represents the pressure spike, and the green represents the the lower pressure spike. This will take you approximately less than a week to put together and test. It takes about three days to put together; about an hour or two each day. Testing it will take about two hours to find the right environment and getting set up. In all it should be done within four days. Oump connect it and twist. Next prime and cement the other end of the 4" x 24" PVC air chamber and cement the inside of the 4" coupling reducer.

Connect and twist. Next stuff the bicycle inner tube into the opening of the 4" coupling reducer, making sure to leave the valve to the bicycle pump partially out of the coupling reducer opening. Take a how to fly in your dreams pump and ohw it to the bicycle valve and partially blow it up to the point where it is squishy. Then stuff the valve back into the air chamber. Now you have finished connecting all the pieces. How to make a linear pvc hydraulic ram pump video above shows the pump in action, follow the directions, the ones listed maake are a summary of what to do, but more detailed descriptions are in the video.

We would also use a swing check valve instead of a spring check valve just for the purposes of seeing if the water would pass through easier. Question 8 weeks ago. We have a 25mm pipe in the stream and its running 21 litres a minute through it.

Reply 1 year ago. Its what use how to use atm card in india the water treatment plants. Yes a little more expensive, but worth it in long term! Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. I don't think you can. You need to have a force of water coming into the tub when it goes to the pump. Reply 5 years ago.

This is a very well explained project. It always makes me sad to see principles demonstrated so well yet APhigh school physics classes can't be bothered. To me this is what neighborhood maker-spaces could be. You'd be a good teacher. Let's see. It is rather easy to see why the plastic would soften or crack and "explode" Does not mean that the whole thing is going to blow apart into shrapnel It is most likely to crack or split and rupture.

Good to know the limitations linead your materials and the forces involved, bad to spread fear tactics without providing all the facts involved. I have made a few of these. They have been in use since the late 's and were the subject of a number of patent infringement fights until about My grandfather had a cast iron unit made by Gould around I'll see if I can find a photo of one like it.

I am working to design a hydro-ram that will be self starting from a holding tank. This will be used where the water flow from a spring is too low to operate the pump, but you need the water at a higher elevation. Run the spring water into the tank. When the water level is high enough, the water will flow from the tank with enough force to start and power the ram pump, sending some of hyrdaulic flow uphill.

Water from the waste valve could be collected to fill another holding tank and power still another hydro-ram. This ram pump flow could be sent back to the spring and recycled through the pump, be used to help fill the first holding tank, or sent to another location as needed. Lots of possiblities. I built one of these when I was a teenager but due to not having enough depth coming in I couldn't get enough pressure to pump more than 7 feet up.

I needed 10 up to water the garden so it was a "failure" for what I needed it to so. It was fun to build.

Nice to see someone making these! We used to have an ancient one near our village actually Hydraulkc remembers there were a lots around many years ago. The only thing you didn't mention anywhere in the article, is efficiency. I hope no-one is waiting for these pumps to be as how to remove java update reminder as an electric pump, they'll be disappointed!

What is far more likely to occur linfar pvc is linear breaks when the pipe is frozen. Unless the piping is buried below the frost line varies with locationit is likely to burst wen temperatures fall below pvcc for some time.

Yes, I owned a hardware store for 30 years and worked in it for my Dad for years before that and had 2 different customers tell me about their PVC compressed air system blowing up. We heard the one at the tire shop across the street - sounded like a large caliber pistol going off! I know, I know. Both our customers whose PVC systems blew up told me they were only running about psi on their compressor control. You can do this with a hack saw or a band saw.

Take the Teflon tape and carefully rap it around the threaded pieces. PSI gauge. Approximated Time This will take you approximately less than a week to put together and test. Take out the PVC primer and carefully apply it the outer edge of the PVC pipe then put the cement on over it and put cement on the inside of one of the sides of the union. Insert the PVC into the union and twist. Put the ball valve onto the PVC and twist. Then cement the inside of the other end of the ball valve.

Put the pieces together how to draw alice madness returns twist. Connect then twist. Then cement the inside of the top opening of the tee. Put together and twist. Then cement the inside of the pgc tee opening. Apply primer and cement what is special purpose vehicle in finance one end of the PVC and cement to the inside of one of the openings in the union.

Apply primer and cement to the other end of the PVC. Then cement the other opening to the ball valve. Connect and twist again. You know what to do Then attach the pipe howw which has the PSI gauge already attached to it. Then cement the inside of the last opening of the tee.

Then cement the top opening of the tee. Do the same to the other exposed PVC piece with swing check valve. Place pump into a moving stream if one is near by if not, you can use a hose as long as it is big enough to provide a snug mae as well and not leak.

Before you start it turn the smaller ball valve off and leave the bigger one all the way open. When water enters the pump it will go up to the swing check valve or the "waste valve" and start to spurt out.

If it is working properly it will be coming out at a high level. After a while it the pressure will be enough to push the latch up and block water from coming up anymore. But because there is still air pressure in there you will need to hold it open with a stick until it starts to come out of the waste valve in intervals like a pump.

When this happens you will now it is working properly. You can also check on the PSI meter to see how much pressure has built up. Hydarulic you can open the smaller ball valve, but just hydrauli little.

You can now go to your output and see the water that has traveled uphill because of your pump! Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Reply Upvote. You did an awesome job explaining the design and build. I really liked the video as well!

Introduction: Hydraulic Ram Pump

Feb 17,  · This is a recent version of a PVC ram pump that I first developed in about It is very low profile to avoid damage during high water, and can run under. Strictly speaking, the ram pump doesn't create its own power but draws energy from the force of a moving column of water, usually fed through a pipe from a point more than 18 inches above the trompe. Mar 11,  · Now you need to put together the pressure chamber. Gather up your big pipe section, cap, adapter, bike tube, and bike pump. Using the pump, partially inflate the bike tube. Don't pump it up all the way, just enough that the tube is squishy. We need the air in the pressure chamber to act like a .

Pump water with no electricity, no gasoline, just gravity! Sound crazy or impossible? Don't worry, it does obey the laws of physics, but I'll try to explain the operation later. This instructable shows how to build a fairly simple water pump that needs no energy input other than water flowing from a higher point to a lower point. Most of the pump is constructed from PVC, with a couple of bronze pieces thrown in for flavor. To function, the pump does require a reasonable amount of water that will drop at least 3'-5'.

The level that the pump can raise water to depends on the water's head total drop the water will make. This design was worked out by Clemson University. If you like what I've done, please take the time to give it a rating, and I'd love to hear your input.

Now that you've bought lots of goodies, lay them out on the table or floor so that you can start to see how the pump goes together. See the pictures for a visual on this. You will have to cut the long sections of pipe into shorter sections to go between each of the fittings.

This is discussed more in the next step. They don't need to be long, just enough to reach all the way into each fitting, maybe with some space between. But not much! Once these pieces are all cut, take your knife or some sand paper and try to smooth the inside edge of the pipe. Get all the burr off, clean it up, give it a nice bevel or rounded edge. The idea here is to make these as smooth as possible, to reduce the likelihood of cracks developing with the repeated pressure waves that occur inside the pipe.

While you're at it, you might as well clean up the edges on the other sections of pipe, though it will be less critical for the other parts. Now that you've got all the connecting segments, you can actually test fit the first part of the pump together, just for fun.

Don't worry if the pipes seem rather tight when you're test fitting everything. The primer and cement help them go together when you do the real assembly. Grab your lab gloves, a clamp, primer, cement, two fittings and their connecting piece of pipe. Then head to a well ventilated space, because the primer and cement aren't precisely aromatherapy.

At least not the good kind. For those of you who haven't built things from PVC in the past, it isn't terribly difficult. The primer serves to clean off the PVC a little bit and gets it ready to really bond with the cement. The cement keeps everything together. Most PVC chemical bottles have caps with little brushes attached to them. Take the cap off the primer, and carefully coat the outside face of the pipe, with a band about 2" wide beginning at the end.

Take care not to drip the primer on anything that you don't want permanently purple. Once the pipe is coated, do the same for the inside of the fitting that you're planning on cementing up. Close up the primer bottle. Open up the cement bottle, which should also have a little brush in it.

With this brush, go over the areas that you painted with the primer. Don't rush, but you do want to get the pipes together before the cement dries up. You've got time though, so focus on getting a nice coating of cement on both pieces.

Once you've got cement where you want it and hopefully only a little where you don't fit the pipe into the fitting. It should slide in without too much resistance. When working on my pump, I felt that it was best to clamp up each piece after I had assembled it, that way the pipe couldn't slip back at all.

It may not be necessary, but I figure it helps. Most of the pieces go together in a fairly self-explanatory way, but there are a few things to note: on the spring check valve there is an arrow, and you will want this to point toward the main tee that will have the 4" pipe air chamber on it.

This allows water to pass through toward the main tee, which you want. With the brass swing check valve , the arrow should point down toward the tee, and the main line of pipe.

On to the next step for order of assembly! You can choose to start with other pieces, but I found that setting up the main line gave me something easy to clamp up. When connecting the threaded sections, make sure to wrap some teflon tape around the threads. This will help the operation along and prevent leaks at these joints. Now you need to put together the pressure chamber. Gather up your big pipe section, cap, adapter, bike tube, and bike pump.

Using the pump, partially inflate the bike tube. Don't pump it up all the way, just enough that the tube is squishy. We need the air in the pressure chamber to act like a spring. The bike tube prevents the pressure chamber from becoming waterlogged during operation.

Air dissolves into water. It does so more readily at high pressure. This is related to how commercially produced soft drinks are carbonated The bike tube sequesters some of the air from ever contacting the water in theory , and prevents all of the air from being carried out of the pressure chamber.

Stuff the bike tube down into the big pipe, a la image two. After this, cement on both ends, and clamp that sucker up. Once that's dried up, go ahead and glue this whole assembly to the pipe coming from the main tee. That's totally possible. It's also possible to either mount a schrader valve onto the end cap of the pressure chamber to recharge it. Whatever suits your fancy, but this setup worked fine for me so far.

If you want to use the pressure gauge, you will mount that after the main tee. Setup is pretty self explanatory. From top to bottom it goes: Gauge, pipecock, nipple, bushing, tee. Remember to wrap all threaded connections with teflon tape, and make sure you tighten them up well.

Cement these. If you haven't done it already, install the brass swing check valve. Make sure that the flapper I just like calling it that is hanging down, when the pump is held upright everything pointing upwards. Simple enough. After that, you may break out the flapper dress, cut your hair short, and swing dance the night away celebrating the reckless spirit of the Jazz Age and completion of your pump.

You party animal you. Now that you've got a rather aggressive looking collection of PVC bits, it's time to make it do something. My first method was a chopped up milk jug. Honestly, I just wanted to see this thing pump some water. My later design was to mount a shower drain on the other end of the stand pipe, and fix that to a styrofoam cooler that I had cut a matching hole in.

The cooler served as a collector for the pipe, and it all worked pretty well. In more permanent installation to be completed in the coming spring I'll attach this shower drain to a board that can be fixed in the higher water supply, and things will be good.

Gather up a garden hose, your stand pipe, and your pump, then drag all of this out to your waterfall or what have you. Bring a friend or two. They help in the setup, and maybe you can win the bet that "you can pump water above the source without electricity, gasoline, diesel, a bicycle, or a bucket while they watch. On to the next step for theory of operation, troubleshooting and tuning.

When you install this permanently or semi-permanently , you'll want to find a good place to anchor it to, probably not in the stream. Also, for those in the northern or far southern latitudes, you won't want this to be running during the winter. Water could potentially collect inside the pressure chamber and freeze, causing you problems untimely death of pump.

But experiment as you feel fit. The video here is playable using Quicktime. Presently, you have to save it to your computer, and change the extension bit after the long strange file name from. I'm sorry it's being difficult, maybe someday I'll set it up with an embedded player, but right now I'm short on time. It shows the pump working, with narration by yours truly. Gives you an idea of what it sounds like standing in the water right next to it, and also has a close up of the swing check valve working.

So here goes for the operation of the pump. As the pump cycle begins, water flows down the stand pipe, and up through the swing check valve. Water begins to flow faster and faster around the flapper in the check valve, until friction draws the flapper up, slamming it closed. This causes a pressure spike in the pump body, as the water flowing down the stand pipe at some speed no longer has anywhere to go. This pressure is relieved by some of the water flowing across the spring check valve, over onto the pressure chamber side of the pump.

Once past the swing check valve, it cannot return, and has to stay there. When the pressure difference across the spring check valve drops, the valve will close and water will stop flowing through it.

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