How to shape resin – shape resin to form a bowl
Sep 12, · Once all the resin is poured, add a silicone poached egg mold on top; this is what will create the bowl. To keep the mold down, carefully add water to weigh it down, making sure the water does not get into your resin because of course, water and resin equals disaster! Aug 22, · Resin Mixing Instructions Warm Water Bath Pour Equal Amounts of Each.
If you have ever asked yourself how to shape resin, let me assure you that you can! Making a resin bowl is a great leftover resin projectso have your supplies ready the next time you find yourself with extra resin. You will need a plastic, disposable drop cloth for this project.
You can find them in the painting section of a home improvement store. The thicker the plastic, the better. Peeling the resin off thick plastic is easier than thin plastic.
Cut off a square of plastic about three times larger than you think you will need. For this resin project, I wanted a bowl a little larger than my hand. To help create the bowl form, choose something to serve as the bowl template. I used a small jelly jar. Next, pull up the plastic along the sides of the jar and use a sharpie to make several marks on the plastic where the edge of the jar meets the plastic. I wanted a multicolor resin bowl that used clear and colored resin, along with some embellishments.
For this bowl, I kept half of the resin clear and colored the other half with Resin Obsession transparent yellow. The next step in how to shape resin is to pour the resin! I filled the center of the plastic with colored resin. Let your marks on the plastic help guide you to the how long to cook scallop of where you should not pour resin. After you have colored resin in the center, add a ring of clear resin around it.
NOTE: Before moving on to the next step, the resin needs to be rubbery and bendable, but not fully cured. This time varies amongst resins. Check it every couple of hours until it gets to this stage. Once the resin is soft, peel it away from the dropcloth. Squeeze it to form it in an abstract shape. Once you get a shape you like, set it aside to cure. To keep it in the shape I made, I let the resin finish curing in a box to hold what are dog muzzles for the sides while the jar I used as my template weighted down the center.
I really like how the bowl turned out. It looks like something abstract made from glass. Want to learn more about resin? Grab your copy of the book specially written for resin beginners, Resin Fundamentals. The instant download ebook will take you from confused to confident with resin in no time, even if you are new to resin!
This is pretty cool! I like the free form look and the choice of inclusions … as a jewelry designer, I have TONS of beads! Question, tho … could you have inverted the jelly jar and draped the soft cure resin over it rather than trying to keep the edges of the bowl up? You would what did the renaissance trade to pull it off sooner than I did about 4 hours after mixing and pouring.
Simply cut another piece of plastic to cover the upended jar and then drape away. This also would allow you to adjust the folds of the draping more to your liking and if you poured more than the depth of the jar you could fold out the resin like petals. If you want to invert the free-form bowl on the glass jar, just use another another piece of plastic and put it over the jar prior to the resin. That way it will not stick. What I do is put the pliable resin over how to clean yellow toilet seat glass jar plastic side down and use my gloved hands to shape it over how to make a resin bowl jar.
I cover column candles with amazon bubble mailers cut into strips and tape together and raise them with a jar or bowl so the sides drape and fold.
This makes a great candle holder. I have tried to make freeform bowls on the past without much success. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I am a newbie to resin and have just started using it with some jewelry. What I do is small and I use resin that is cured in a UV lamp. What kind of resin is this? This is most likely epoxy resin that cures on its own over time rather than with a UV light. Both have similar effects just a matter of how quickly you want your pieces and art to be ready!
This is a two part resin. You need to mix in the catalyst to allow the chemical reaction that causes hardening. The commonly used mix is These resins usually cure in about 24 hours, going thru different stages of hardness as they cure. Hi Jo, yes, others are correct in that I used leftover two-part epoxy resin for artwork. I want to protect acrylic paintings on old glass in old frames — how can I pour resin on the glass and not have it become larger because it fits in the frame now and has to fit the frame.
We will be using these for making a Green house. Hi What are bank of america core values, do you mean food safe? After tips from you about plastic and challenges I had trying this before, I tried again and had a wonderful outcome making an ocean themed bowl with tiny seashells, sand dollars and starfish along the outer edges. The only issue I had was waiting too long to drape it and had some cracking along fold lines.
I learned the timing of the resin I used and the 2nd time it turned out perfectly! Thanks for the inspiration, guidance and encouragement!
You take the fear of wasting material away and inspire ways to use leftover resin at the same time. How to make a resin bowl your site! How do I share a picture to you. How I use my unused resin. A natural Acorn cap from the oak tree, a few baby leaves from the oak tree they have been pressed and anything else natural that I find on the sidewalk or woods.
I glued these small items into an acorn cap and there they set until I have a few drops of resin left over. Most of them go to friends or Family so I also add a Freshwater Pearl to each.
Step 3 I wanted a multicolor resin bowl that used what is 16 de septiembre for mexico and colored resin, along with some embellishments.
Like this post? You may be interested in Tips for working with epoxy resin. Previous: How to make a resin spoon pendant. Next: How to glitter and resin a tumbler — decorate a tumbler with resin. Do you have any pics or a link to describe what youre talking about? Sounds very interesting! The bowl is really pretty. A unique gift idea for friends that have everything.
Yes, I know. I was asking what kind of resin is the bowl made from. Hi Sherry, I saw your email. What a cute idea for leftover resin!
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Step 1: The Epoxy
Nov 07, · To help create the bowl form, choose something to serve as the bowl template. I used a small jelly jar. Next, pull up the plastic along the sides of the jar and use a sharpie to make several marks on the plastic where the edge of the jar meets the plastic. You will need several marks to establish the boundary of where you will pour your resin. Jul 08, · Form the Bowl. I picked up the entire piece of resin, together with the plastic wrap, and laid it over the bottom of a plastic bowl to shape it. Form the Bowl. Make sure that the plastic wrap side is facing down so that you don’t end up with a resin bowl stuck to the outside of your plastic bowl. I gently shaped it. Jul 14, · My website: freedatingloves.comsor my channel? Use this link. freedatingloves.com the info you need:freedatingloves.com
I've seen some flat out amazing resin cast colored pencil projects made on the lathe, and I wanted to give it a shot but add a slightly different twist to it. My goal was to create a turning blank where the pencils remain intact and are embedded around the edge of the bowl.
Well, I figured out a super easy way to get the pencils to stay in place and the project was a success! I hope you enjoy seeing how it was made, and I hope that you try it out or get some inspiration for another project from it. First thing you'll need to do is grab some casting resin, some colored pencils and a plastic bowl to use as a mold.
I found some pretty cheap colored pencils on Amazon , and they worked perfect for the project. I used Alumilite Clear - Slow Set resin for my bowl, and that also requires the use of a pressure pot.
Other items you'll need to have is a mixing cup, something to mix it up with, and some gloves to keep the resin off your hands. Oh, and I almost forgot the secret ingredient: tape! I used tape to keep the pencils in place which worked great, but I'd recommend cutting the pencils down and only leaving about an inch or so above the rim of the bowl if you're using a pressure pot.
I also recommend drying out the pencils before you cast them to ensure there is no moisture in them. Most resins do not like moisture, so I pop the pencils in the oven at around degrees for at least a few hours. Ok, so you have the pencils dried out and you've gathered your casting supplies, now it's time to set up your mold.
To keep the pencils in place, the easiest way I found was to just put packing tape around the edge of the bowl leaving about an inch of tape hanging above the rim so you can stick the pencils to it.
I tried to leave equal space between my pencils and just let the bottoms of the pencil barely rest on the bottom of the bowl, and I decided to just randomly place colors around the bowl. With everything prepped, it's time to start mixing your resin. Make sure to read the directions for your resin to know what ratio of resin to hardener you need to use as well as whether it is measured by volume or weight.
In my case, Alumilite Clear is measured by weight, and the ratio is This casting took about grams of resin, so grams of Part A and grams of Part B.
The amount of resin will be dependent upon the size of the plastic bowl you will be using for the mold. Mine was approximately 6 inches in diameter and about 3 inches tall, give or take. It's best to pour both parts of the resin into the same cup to ensure you don't throw off the ratio when pouring one into the other. It's impossible to get every gram of resin out of the one cup when you pour it, so it will always be slightly off if you pour one cup into the other.
Once you've measured out your resin and hardener into a cup, you'll want to mix it thoroughly, and make sure you scrape the sides and bottom of the cup well to get all the Part A's and Part B's mixed up well.
It's best to use a cup without any indentations or ridges, those will tend to trap resin in them and the resin won't get properly mixed up. I used a paint mixing cup, they are really great for mixing large amounts of resin and totally smooth. When the resin has been fully mixed up, you just pour it into the bowl mold trying not to make the pencils move around much. If any pencils do move slightly, you can adjust them once you've poured all the resin in.
If you are using a slow setting resin, then you'll just want to let it sit and cure. You could use vibration to help free any air bubbles in the mixture. If you will be using a pressure pot, then pop it in and clamp it down.
Make sure to keep the pressure below the maximum PSI rating for the pressure pot you are using. After the casting has cured, it's time to pop it out of the mold.
I used a plastic bowl made out of HDPE, and the casting just fell right out The next thing to think about is how you will mount the bowl to the lathe initially. I decided to use a bottle stopper mandrel to mount the bowl to the lathe initially while I trued up the outside of the bowl and cut a mortise into the base so I could flip the bowl around and grab it with the 4 jaw chuck.
The stopper mandrel worked perfect for this size bowl. In order to mount the bowl to the stopper mandrel, I first used a 1. To keep the bowl safely positioned on the drill press table, I used double stick tape to hold it to a piece of plywood.
I used a center finder to mark the center of the bowl, then knocked out the flat spot only drilling until the bit flattened the whole 1. With the bowl ready to be mounted to the mandrel, it's time to screw it on and spin it up. I used a negative rake scraper to true up the outside and bottom of the bowl.
Carbide tools, which are scraping tools, also work great. There really isn't much shaping to do because the mold is in the general shape of a bowl already. That's not to say that you can't put your own spin on the shaping of the bowl, but I was happy with the shape of the bowl, and my intention with this piece is to keep the colored outside of the pencils intact.
So, I wanted to follow the shape of the bowl mold. This was due to the fact that I didn't dry the pencils out before I cast the pencils You want to make the diameter of the mortise close to the diameter of the jaws of your chuck when fully closed. For this bowl, the 2" jaws worked great and left enough resin material outside of the mortise to have enough strength for the jaws to grab it.
A tenon would work just as well, if not possibly better; however, I prefer not having to cut off the tenon. I finished working on the mortise using a skew chisel to get match the dovetail shape of my jaws for maximum contact and grip when chucking the bowl up in the jaws.
Once everything was trued up and the mortise was ready to go, it was time to sand the bottom of the bowl.
I started out with grit sandpaper and went up to grit. Because the ends of the pencils are exposed, you'll want to put a finish on top to seal off the pencils. I used spray lacquer for my bowl, but any top coat finish will work. When sanding, you will want to make sure that you get all the previous grit scratches out before moving on to the next step. I won't lie, sanding resin blanks does take a little more effort than wood because the surface is dense compared to wood that has grain.
Plastics require diligent sanding and a flawless surface to ensure no scratches are visible in the end. Just take your time and crank up some tunes, and you'll be done before you know it! Once you've flipped the bowl and mounted it on the 4 jaw chuck, it's time to hollow out the core of the bowl.
To make things a little easier, I used a 2" forstner bit to drill out the center first. Take your time drilling, you don't want to heat up the resin with friction, so clear the chips frequently.
After I drilled out a 2" hole, I switched back to the negative rake scraper to finish coring out and shaping the inside of the bowl. Again, my intention was to steer clear of the actual pencils, so I left the bowl a bit on the chunky side. I might try cutting into the pencils on the inside but leave the outsides intact next time to see how that looks.
Once you've cored and shaped the inside of the bowl, then it's time to pull out the sandpaper again and crank up those tunes! I went from to again on the inside. Now that you're all finished shaping and sanding the bowl, it's time to apply the finish. I wiped down the bowl with some denatured alcohol to get all the sanding dust off the surface.
I recommend just barely getting a paper towel damp with alcohol and wiping off the ends of the pencils. If you doused the pencil ends where the lead is, you could smear pencil lead all over, so just lightly dab them off.
I chose to use a gloss spray lacquer to seal and finish my bowl. It should only take about coats, and the bowl will be nice and sealed up. I gave mine a couple base coats, then sanded with grit in between coats from there on.
After letting the finish cure for a couple days, I "finished the finish". To give the bowl that crystal clear look, you'll want to sand and polish the finish. To take out any bumps or dust nibs that ended up in the finish, I used grit paper. You don't need to sand aggressively at this point, you're just trying to flatten everything out. After it was nice and smooth, I moved up to grit, then , , and Just like the resin, you're goal is to remove all the previous grit scratches before moving on.
For the finishing touch, I took the bowl to the buffing wheels first using the Tripoly buffing compound, then White Diamond. I use regular buffing wheels to do the outside of the bowl, then switch to the Beall bowl buffs to get the inside of the bowl.
It makes a great gift, and it's also a great product to sell!! If you do make one, tag me if you post it on social media or shoot me an email with a pic attached through my contact form on my website. Most of all though, have just have fun with it!! Reply 3 years ago. Since you are planning on making a cup, I assume that the resin is food safe. Is it dishwasher safe too? No, it's not really food safe. The resin doesn't have any FDA certifications, and the lacquer isn't certified either.
I think these types of projects are best suited for display or other non food related use to be on the safe side. More by the author:. About: Resin Casting Junkie!! My passion is exploring all things resin casting and turning.
Join me in the shop as we learn and explore what all we can do with resin and a lathe! More About NV Woodwerks ». Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It!